Step #2–Making Templates
Mold template, scroll template, arching template
How do I transfer those lines?
Having chosen to use the 1712 Davidov Stradivarius cello as my pattern, I went to a copy shop, and had them make a photocopy of the drawing on the back of the poster. They made three copies, as I intended to cut the copies up in making the templates. I pasted the cut up photocopies to thin plywood (“door-skin”), and then cut out the shapes seen in the photos below. An even better material for templates, produced in exactly the same way, is 1.5mm Aluminum.
Still another way, which I use on smaller instruments, is to use clear, 3mm plastic (lucite, plexiglas, whatever you call it) and trace with a scribe, directly over the original drawing. The resulting template is accurate, transparent, and does not warp with a change in humidity. Your choice…
How Templates are used:
The idea behind the templates is that I should have a flat pattern to trace around when determining the shape of the mold and a curve to match the shape of the archings as I carve the topography of the plates. Photos below:
Here is the mold template and neck/scroll template:
The Mold template is taken from the drawing as the inside of the rib outline…that is, it is a line that is interior to the outer rib outline by the thickness of the ribs. It will be used to establish the shapes of both the mold (next article) and the blocks (‘nother article, yet). The neck template will be used to establish the initial shape of the scroll.
Here is the front longitudunal arching template, in use:
And here are some of the cross-arching templates:
The arching templates are handy, because they allow me to make my arching the same shape every time…if that is a good thing. If I want to change something, I can do anything I want–but in this case I wanted to match the original as closely as I could.